The details are not the details. They make the design.
- Shop our belts here -
In Budapest, we met a craftsman so obsessed with detail and design, it is a unique experience to see him and his team create a leather belt from scratch, with nothing more than some automated tools, and a couple of overly engineered hand tools that date back to the USSR.
For our belts, we introduced some small, but important design changes, things that are a mere detail to many, but were immediately understood and picked up by our factory.
Manufacturing a lined and raised belt starts with cutting out the different strips of material. For our belts, we only use full grain leathers, for the lining, interlining and outer. This is quite rare these days, since most manufacturers use low quality lining, and synthetics for the interlining. An all leather belt is more supple and durable however.
Edges of the belt are skived, a process in which a layer of leather is removed with a rotating cutting knife, to reduce thickness and bulk at the edges, and later to create a ridge for the stitching.
All three strips are glued by hand and laminated on top of each other. Special leather bonding glues are used, and only a little is enough. Too much could squueze out from the sides and stain the leather.
To ensure a smooth bevel along the raised center of the belt, it is run across an edge creaser specifically designed for this purpose. Two metal rolls create a perfect, domed top.
A special, custom-built machine is used to cut the straps to perfect size a final time, and with the use of traditional, hard paper patterns, the ends are marked and cut.
The belt is stitched with a tone on tone continuous filament thread, for strength and durability, on a German Adler stitching machine.
Edge finishing the belt was an important detail on our belts, especially because of the multi-layered construction. A good edge finish is a key sign of a quality product, since a lot of handwork and time must be invested. During edge finishing, we dye and burnish the edges, in multiple runs until the finish is perfectly smooth. It is important to use a flexible edge coating, to avoic cracking in the long rung.
Edges are buffed and then burnished by the use of a spinning wheel, mounted on a rotator drill.
In the final stages, the belt buckles, sourced from Italy and made from solid brass, are hand stitched to the belt with waxed thread. Four separate stitches secure the buckle in place.
Jeeves offers a number of different types of buckles. Nickle, with its rich lustre, is a perfect choice in any setting, and is a step up from the much duller stainless steel. Polished brass, we like to reserve for a more casual setting, and is mainly used on our wider, grained leather belts. Each buckle is also available in a satin finish.
Using a custom punching die, five oval holes are hand punched into the belt. All our belts make use of oval holes, to ensure the buckle tongue lays flat when the belt is strapped. It's a little detail, but drastically improves the comfort and look of our belts.
Finally, after careful inspection of the finished belt, our logo is stamped with great force in the lining, as a sign of quality and trust.